Since moving out to Southern California, my outlook on produce has considerably changed. The over all quality in there agriculture is phenomenal. Yet, even with its outstanding standards in production you can find wonderful alternatives. For example, one of the most used and beloved items in California cuisine is the avocado. Every once in a while it is a bit difficult to find the perfect Cali one and when that's the case I turn to Mexican Avocado's. Whether the dish requires a soft truly ripe fruit or one that gives just enough resistance for garnishing, they have it.
Through out the past two years that I have been out west, the uses of this fruit has seemed one sided. There is the quintessential guacamole, the addition of it to salads, wraps and the occasional soup.
What keeps its use so one sided? Is the Avocado doomed to forever bathe itself in cilantro, onions, jalapenos and lime juice? Being a firm believer that foods from different regions can transcend there flavors and textures, I think not.
With that said, the problem can be found not with how its used but with what style of cuisine it is used in. The Avocado seems to frolic between Latin American food and Californian styles. It should at least be given a chance to travel overseas.
Having thought about the season, its uses, mouth feel and flavor, the following recipe takes the avocado away from its humble abode to the land of croissants and brie. Using a variation of the french fines herbs minus tarragon (sorry tarragon lovers....no dice), beautiful plating techniques and there belief in preserving the goodness of fine products this is what I have come up with.
Avocado and Herb Crusted Salmon
on Sauteed Arugula, Spring Carrots, Baby Zucchini and Snap Peas
with a Red Wine Vinaigrette and fresh Herbs
Herb Crust
1c whole grain bread crumbs
1 1/2tbs Avocado
1tsp pickled capers (strained no liquid)
1tsp curly leaf parsley
1tsp chervil
1/2ea Meyer lemon (juiced)
1ea pinch Meyer lemon zest
1tsp chives
1tsp minced white onion
1/2tsp garlic paste (1ea clove should do it)
1tbs extra virgin olive oil
s/p to taste
Salmon
6-7oz piece of salmon (skinless)
1/2ea Meyer lemon
1tsp red wine vinegar
1tsp Meyer lemon zest
1tbsp blended olive oil
s/p to taste
Arugula
3-4 cups uncooked arugula
1tsp small diced white onion
1tsp sliced garlic
1tsp blended olive oil
s/p to taste
Spring Carrots, Baby zucchini and Snap Peas
2ea spring carrots
2ea baby zucchini
3-4ea snap peas
1tbs curly leaf parsley
1tsp chervil
1tsp chives
Red Wine Vinaigrette
1tbs red wine vinegar
3tbs extra virgin olive oil
1 drop Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp Honey (substitute with simple syrup if you don't want a honey flavor)
1pinch curly leaf parsley
1pinch chervil
1pinch chives
Garnish
3slices avocado
1pinch curly leaf parsley
1pinch chervil
1pinch chives
1/2ea Meyer lemon
s/p
Method and Techniques
First things First:
Bring one small pot of water to a boil for carrots and snap peas
Heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit
Have one saute pan for vegetables and one for the fish...if your like me you will have to wash one right after you sear the fish so that you can saute the arugula then carrots, zucchini and snap peas hopefully you have two saute pans to make dirty for your lovely local dish washers ie: roommates, onlookers and sometimes innocent by-standers (they are my favorite!!)
Red Wine Vinaigrette:
In a mixing bowl add red wine vinegar, honey, Dijon and a pinch of s/p. Slowly mix in extra virgin olive oil. Once it has all come together add fresh herbs and keep it to the side until plating.
Herb Crust:
First chop all herbs, capers and mince white onion set aside. Take the avocado and split it in half. Using a spoon take out pit then scoop out the rest. Flip it over so that the bright green portion of it is showing with the pit side down. slice it thin reserving three middle pieces for garnish. Put aside. The rest of the slices you want to half, then cut length wise into a small dice (being careful with it isn't extremely important as it will break up a bit when mixing the crust). Zest the Meyer lemon put aside. After zesting the lemon juice it reserving 1/2 for crust and the other half for a quick marinating of the salmon. For the garlic paste take one clove (peeled and the but end cut off) and crush it with the side of your knife. If this makes you uncomfortable feel free to hit it with a mallet...feels good to release that tension huh. After crushing the garlic mince it up thoroughly. Occasionally swipe the side of your knife through it as if you where spreading peanut butter on bread. After it resembles a paste put aside.
In a small mixing bowl place bread crumbs, capers, herbs, lemon zest, salt and pepper mix. Set aside. In another small bowl mix lemon juice, garlic paste and olive oil until everything is well incorporated. Now combine everything into one bowl. The breading should be moist but not soaking wet. If it forms a loose ball yet still sticks a bit good job!
Salmon:
Take the portioned piece of fish out rinse then pat dry. Chop the herbs set aside. The reserved Meyer lemon juice and zest should now be mixed with the olive oil, red wine vinegar and fresh herbs. Poor over fish season and set aside for about ten minutes while you prepare the vegetables and vinaigrette. Poor about 2 tbs of blended oil into small bowl or mise en place dish for cooking it. After preparing the vegetables and vinaigrette you can now start the fish. Heat up a small saute pan. Poor in oil pat the fleshy side of the skin dry to avoid burning yourself and wait for the pan to get almost smoking hot. Put fish in fleshy side down sear for 4-5 minutes or until a solid browning of salmon has occurred. Once seared turn off heat and put it on a small baking tray ,rare skin side down (and yes the tray should be oiled a bit). Ball up a fair amount of the herb crust then smear, covering the salmon... use as much or as little as you want...it is the only direct carbohydrate used in this dish so no worries. Have fun with it. After covering your lovely sear place on hold until you have started blanching vegetables. Once the vegetables are in water place in oven for 6-7 minutes or until desired temperature is reached once cooked hold aside for plating. (plating should not take more than 1 minute so be prepared with the veg before finishing fish in oven...over cooked salmon is no bueno)
Arugula:
Small dice the white onion and slice the garlic thin. Have the arugula washed and dried. Heat a saute pan with a little bit of blended olive oil toss in white onion and garlic slices. Do not brown them. After sweating the garlic and onion mixture add arugula and saute until wilted. Season with salt and pepper place on a plate with paper towel to soak up the leached liquid. Keep warm
Vegetables:
Peel the spring carrots and then cut in half. Place in boiling water 2-3 minutes
Clean the snap peas, pinching the ends off and peeling it down the side removing the stringy membrane. Drop snap peas into the simmering carrots for 1 minute then strain the peas and carrots cool them down in ice water and hold until you have the zucchini ready.
Wash the baby zucchini, cut off dirty ends then cut in half. Heat a saute pan up, add some blended olive oil, sear the zucchini and carrots. After you have a good amount of color on the two add snap peas, s/p and fresh herbs. Turn the heat off and hold warm for plating.
For Plating:
Take the drained arugula and place off of the center of your plate. Put the mixed vegetables on the other side of the arugula so that the center of the plate is covered leaving a fair amount of space around the edges. Place the Salmon on top of your beautiful vegetable base. Season the three slices of avocado, squeeze a bit of Meyer lemon juice on it sprinkle with a bit of herbs then place on top of the crusted salmon. Give the red wine vinaigrette a stir. Spoon some on the fish and avocado garnish, then spoon more around the edge of your plate. Sprinkle some of the herb mix around and serve. Enjoy.
Wine Suggestion
It can be a crisp refreshing white such as a vouvray or a nice oak-barrel chardonnay with a full body. If whites are not for you a simple Rose or light pinot noir will work.
A creamy chardonnay would work fine with this dish.
I like:
The Winery at La Grange
Fetcher's Chardonnay
2007
Virginia
A light Refreshing Rose
Iron Horse
Brut Rose (sparkling)
2005
Green Valley, Sonoma CA
